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How to Achieve Watertight 3D Prints

3D Printing 101 Guide
  • 00003botton3DSPRO Engineer
  • 00005bottonDec. 26 | 2025
  • 00002botton 3D Printing 101
  • 00001botton206
  • 28 clicks

     

    What Does Watertight Mean?

     

    A 3D print is considered watertight when it can hold or withstand water without leaking through its walls, seams, or microgaps. In engineering terms, a watertight part prevents liquid from passing through layer lines, perimeter gaps, microscopic pores, material microstructure, and ssembly joints.

     

    • Watertightness is not the same as water resistance.

    • Waterresistant parts can tolerate splashes or brief exposure.

    • Watertight parts can contain water or withstand pressure without leaking.

     

    how-to-achieve-watertight-3d-prints

     

    Image Source: PRUSA RESEARCH

     

    What Is Porosity?

     

    Porosity refers to the presence of microscopic voids or gaps within a printed part. These voids can occur:

    • Between layers (poor adhesion)

    • Between perimeters (underextrusion or insufficient walls)

    • Inside infill (intentional or unintentional)

    • Within the material itself (filament moisture, resin shrinkage)

     

    Porosity is the primary reason 3D prints leak.

     

    Types of Porosity in 3D Printing

     

    1. Structural Porosity

    Caused by slicer settings or machine calibration. Examples:

    • Low flow rate

    • Too few perimeters

    • Sparse infill

    • Low print temperature

     

    2. Material Porosity

    • Caused by the inherent properties of the filament or resin.

    • Hygroscopic materials (e.g., nylon) absorb moisture

    • Some resins shrink during curing, creating microvoids

     

    3. Process Porosity

    • Caused by environmental or mechanical factors.

    • Drafts cooling layers too quickly

    • Nozzle clogs

    • Inconsistent extrusion

     

    Understanding porosity is essential because watertightness is ultimately about eliminating pathways for water to escape.

     

    Design Principles for Watertight Parts

     

    Designing for watertightness begins long before slicing or printing. The geometry, wall thickness, and orientation of your part all influence its ability to hold water.

     

    1. Increase Wall Thickness: Thicker walls reduce the chance of water finding a path through the part.

     

    2. Use Rounded Internal Corners: Sharp corners concentrate stress and can create weak points where layers separate. Rounded corners distribute stress and improve sealing.

     

    3. Avoid Thin, Flat Surfaces: Large flat areas are prone to warping and layer separation. Curved surfaces (like cylinders) naturally resist pressure and seal better.

     

    4. Minimize Overhangs and Bridges: Unsupported areas can sag, creating gaps. For watertight parts, design with selfsupporting angles, minimal bridging and smooth transitions.

     

    5. Consider Print Orientation: Orientation affects layer exposure to pressure; vertical orientation is better for containers because pressure pushes against continuous walls; horizontal orientation is more likely to leak because pressure pushes between layers.

     

    6. Integrate Gaskets or ORing Grooves: For multipart assemblies, design features that allow elastomeric seals. Even perfectly printed parts benefit from mechanical sealing.

     

    7. Avoid Complex Internal Cavities: Hidden voids can trap air or water and complicate sealing. Simplify internal geometry when possible.

     

    Material Choices and Their Impact

     

    Material selection plays a major role in watertightness. Some materials naturally seal better, while others are porous or absorb moisture.

     

    FDM Materials

     

    Material

    Watertightness

    Notes

    PLA

    Moderate

    Easy to print but can absorb water over time.

    PETG

    High

    Excellent layer adhesion; good for containers.

    ABS

    Moderate

    Strong but prone to warping, which can create gaps.

    Nylon

    Low

    Highly hygroscopic; absorbs water readily.

    TPU

    High

    Flexible and seals well, but not ideal for rigid containers.

    Polycarbonate

    High

    Strong and dense but requires high temps.

     

    Resin Materials

     

    Resin prints are naturally more watertight because they cure as solid masses rather than extruded lines.

     

    • Standard resin: Good watertightness but brittle

    • Tough resin: Better for functional parts

    • Flexible resin: Excellent sealing but low rigidity

    • Engineering resins: Best for pressurebearing applications

     

    Nylon

     

    Nylon prints are strong but inherently porous because they are sintered powder. They require sealing treatments for watertightness.

     

    Post Processing Options

     

    Even with perfect design and material choices, postprocessing is often necessary to achieve true watertightness.

     

    1.  Heat Treatment / Annealing

    • Annealing can improve layer bonding and reduce microgaps.

    • PLA and PETG respond well

    • Nylon and ABS require controlled environments

     

    2. Epoxy Coating

    One of the most reliable sealing methods.

     

    Benefits:

    • Creates a smooth, impermeable barrier

    • Works on FDM, SLA, and SLS

    • Foodsafe epoxies available

     

    3. Resin Brushing (for FDM)

    Applying UV resin to the surface and curing it creates a hard, watertight shell which is especially effective for vases and decorative containers.

     

    4. Vapor Smoothing

    Acetone vapor smoothing melts the outer layer of ABS, sealing microgaps and creating a glossy finish.

     

    5. Sealants and Sprays

    Options include:

    • Polyurethane spray

    • Acrylic clear coat

    • Silicone sealant (for joints)

    • These are less durable than epoxy but useful for lowpressure applications.

     

    6. Welding Seams

    For multipart assemblies, plastic welding or solvent welding can create watertight joints.

     

    How to Test Watertightness

     

    1. Fill Test (Basic)

    The simplest method is to fill the part with water and let it sit on a dry surface. If no moisture appears after a short period, the print passes. This test is quick and effective for lowpressure uses like vases or decorative containers.

     

    2. Dye Penetration Test

    Adding food coloring to the water makes leaks easier to spot, especially on translucent prints or complex shapes. Any colored streaks or damp spots indicate microgaps that clear water might not reveal.

     

    3. Pressure Test

    For functional parts that must withstand internal pressure, seal the print, pressurize it with air, and submerge it in water. Escaping air will form bubbles, pinpointing leaks. This method closely simulates realworld stress.

     

    4. Vacuum Test

    Placing the part in a vacuum chamber reveals porosity by drawing trapped air out through weak points. It’s particularly useful for SLA or SLS prints, where internal voids may not be visible through other tests.

     

    5. LongTerm Soak Test

    Submerging the part for 24–72 hours shows how it behaves under prolonged exposure. Materials like PLA or nylon may swell or begin leaking over time, even if they initially appear watertight.

     

    6. Thermal Cycling Test

    Alternating between hot and cold water exposes weaknesses caused by expansion and contraction. If the part remains leakfree after several cycles, it’s better suited for environments with temperature fluctuations.

     

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